Waterfall Pillow–The Pattern

The Waterfall Pillow pattern is posted to my Etsy shop which means that my first foray into pattern writing is officially out in the world!! My nervousness dissipated over the last few days and was replaced with eagerness to just get it out there already. Much like the anticipation before a big test, the worrying about an error I had overlooked was starting to get the best of me. Last night I reread the pattern for the 100th time and decided if I hadn’t caught a mistake by now, I probably never would. Plus I always love finding mistakes in published things (especially textbooks!) so maybe it’s only fair that I give someone else the opportunity to find an error in my pattern. Needless to say, I’m glad release day is finally here!

So if you’re looking for a fun and relatively quick project, I hope you’ll give my pillow cover a try! There aren’t any matching seams and the placement of the “waterfall” fabric is all improv, so you really don’t have to worry about getting things just so, which is often a concern with quilting. This is sewing and quilting for the joy of it, and when you’re done, you have a pillow to show for it!

My testers did a great job helping me hone the directions, but I’m always happy to answer your questions if you get stuck or find a particular step confusing. If there’s a question I get several times, I’ll update this post and include info to help! And if there are any pattern corrections (eek!) I’ll list them here. I can’t wait to see what everyone makes!

Wall Hangings for the Lazy

A while back I made a wall hanging for my sewing room, and I absolutely love how it turned out! It’s adapted from the Sienna Burst pattern from Then Came June Patterns, and it fills up a big section of the wall. The only problem was that I had no interest in making a quilt sleeve for hanging it up, and not surprisingly, my “just hang it up with masking tape!” plan failed after a few days. Nothing is quite so sad as walking into your sewing room and seeing a quilt crumpled on the ground.

So I decided to do the smart thing and research alternate ways to hang quilts. Just kidding, I pitifully asked my Instagram friends for help, and boy did they deliver! I got incredible suggestions. A few top contenders were:

  • Command Strips (like masking tape, only better!)
  • Push pins (extra credit for clear or colors that coordinate with your fabric)
  • Regular quilting pins (even more discrete than push pins)
  • Sewing small loops on the back and hanging them on nails (less work than a sleeve for sure)

However the answer that most intrigued me came from CR Creations Shop (@crcreationsshop on Instagram). She suggested using command hooks and nails which sounded sturdy and easy. I decided to be even lazier and simply use some safety pins I had on hand. This was completely trial and error, but it worked perfectly the first time, so I can wholeheartedly recommend this excellently lazy method.

The theory is that you’ll hook the safety pins on the back of the quilt (I did it through the binding since it’s thicker) and then put the nail through the hole of the safety pin. My wall hanging isn’t too wide, so I used 4 safety pins–one in each corner and two others spaced out in the middle. I took a few quick pictures in case you’re having a hard time visualizing how it works!

<—The nail through the safety pin, practicing for hanging!

      

My safety pin placement —>

Before I started hammering, I used a disappearing pen that I use for quilting and my quilt ruler to mark a line on the wall where I wanted the nails to be. The only slightly tricky part was hammering the nails in since I had to push the binding out of the way while also holding up the quilt. But the actual hanging took less than 2 minutes. Once all the nails were in, I wiggled the binding around a bit to make sure you couldn’t see the nails. They are completely hidden, exactly as I had hoped! If you have a wall hanging that needs hung up, I definitely recommend giving this method a shot. Let me know if you have any other tricks for wall hangings and I’ll add them to the list!

Kona Color Card

Until about a year ago, I wasn’t brave enough to sew with solid colored fabric. I had a variety of silly reasons, but finally gave solids a shot and instantly fell in love. Now I use Kona solids almost exclusively because I love the quality of the fabric and variety of colors. But if you’re like me and do the majority of your fabric shopping online, you’ve probably found that it can be hard to tell just what the color you’re ordering looks like in real life.

That’s where the Kona Color Card comes in handy. It has a small swatch of all 340 colors available, and I refer to mine all the time. The only problem is the colors are arranged in a kind of weird order, and it’s hard to visualize them next to other colors, so there’s really only one solution…cut it up! 

Unfortunately I did this a few months ago, so I didn’t take pictures while I was doing it, but it’s pretty self-explanatory. I opted to use an older cutting matting and a rotary cutter blade that I was on the verge of replacing, since cutting it up with scissors sounded too time consuming. I wouldn’t recommend using a brand new mat or blade for this project, or they’ll quickly get ruined!

There are so many good ways to store your color swatches once they are cut up, but I chose to display mine so that I could use them whenever I wanted to. Plus I needed to fill up the walls in my sewing room, so I purchased two Umbra Metal Bulletin Boards and some adhesive magnets and got to work. The magnets were a bit big, so I cut them in half and stuck them on the back of the swatches. I don’t display all of the swatches, but I have two boards in case I ever want to display all 340.

It’s been so handy having them like this. I can fiddle with different color combinations and it makes for pretty cheerful wall decor! I’ve seen other quilters punch holes in them and hang them on hooks, or keep them all on a large ring like paint chips. My extra ones are stored in an old plastic thread holder (from my cross stitch days), so that’s another storage option if you’re not interested in displaying them. No matter what, don’t be afraid to cut up fabric swatches! After all, they’re meant to be used.

This post may contain affiliate links. Please be aware that I may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Basting Tips

Basting–the single word that can strike fear in the heart of any quilter, no matter the context. Even if someone is talking about basting the Thanksgiving turkey, a quilter will have a quick jolt of horror before realizing that they don’t have to baste a quilt, and will weep quiet, happy tears once they realize their mistake. It is an unpleasant task, both boring and stressful, and has nothing to do with your creativity as a quilter, so it’s not like you can go on Instagram and wow everyone will your incredible basting. It’s a necessity if you do your own quilting, and while it’s not fun, I’ve learned a few tips and tricks over the past year that might come in handy for you.

There have been numerous basting tutorials shared in the quilting community, so I’m not going to rehash basting in detail, but rather a few pieces of general quilty advice I’ve discovered through trial and (lots of!) error. If you want an in-depth tutorial, head on over to Suzy Quilts for lots of quality basting advice. Then pop back over here for my random and hopefully helpful tips.

Thus far I have only spray basted, but these tips should be helpful no matter how you baste. This post will focus on three tips:

  • Trim Threads…But Only a Little
  • Iron, and Then Iron Some More
  • Set Up A Basting Supply Station

Trim Threads…But Only a Little 

The back of a quilt is always full of those fun little loose threads that us quilters just hate. The good news is that some of them get to stay! The first time I quilted I drove myself crazy trying to trim them all off…a huge waste of time, and an essentially impossible task. There will ALWAYS be loose threads on the back of a quilt, and that’s totally fine. The ones you want to look out for are the giant ones, or ones of a dark color laying on top of light colored fabric. I tend to sew with a white background a lot (why do I do these things to myself?) so I definitely make sure there’s no threads of any color on the white fabric, because they will definitely show through. And really, seeing a stray thread once you have finished a quilt is such a bummer! But the even bigger bummer is seeing one while you’re quilting, and trying to decide if it’s worth it to rip out your quilting, rip apart the basting, and remove the offending thread. Faced with that terrible decision, I did rip everything out, and I hated every minute of it.

So spend a little quality time with the back of your quilt and get it spruced up a little bit. This picture is an example of a quilt back after I trimmed it. You can see I left a bunch of threads, so you really don’t need to drive yourself crazy trimming. Nothing in this picture will show through to the front–I promise!

Iron, and Then Iron Some More

Ironing (or pressing, as the pros call it) is an essential part of quilting, particularly basting. Your fabric needs to be wrinkle and crease free when you prep for basting, so once you’ve cleaned the back of any large threads, it’s time to get thee to your ironing board and spend some quality time with your iron. I highly recommend setting up by the TV to make this process more pleasant. You want the seams on the back to be pressed correctly (I’m a seams open quilter, and nothing will change that!). You don’t want any seams pressed the wrong way or worse, partially closed. This will make things wonky during basting and quilting. I usually do the back first and move to the front once all seams are pressed correctly. Really get that quilt top as crisp as you can! Then put the quilt top somewhere safe and flat…a bed ideally, but over the back of a couch works in a pinch. Now you get to iron the quilt backing. Aren’t you lucky?!? I do it in this order so that if I need to abandon my project, the quilt backing (which you need first in the basting process) is on the top of the pile.

As I mentioned in my post about Straight Line Quilting, I also iron my quilt AFTER I’ve basted. Yep, I love ironing that much!! Ok, not really, but I read this tip on the Suzy Quilts tutorial I shared (thanks, helpful commenter!) and decided to give it a shot. What a huge difference it has made for me! A quilt might seem well-basted when it’s laying on the ground, but ironing it will reveal any bunching in the fabric. It also helps the adhesive really adhere so that your basting doesn’t come apart at any point (a frequent complaint regarding spray basting). I iron the back of the quilt first, pulling the fabric and batting apart if necessary, and repositioning it. Repeat this process on the front and you’ll be left with a gorgeous quilt, ready to baste! You can see in this picture I’ve ironed the right side of this basted quilt, but not the left. I realize it’s not an earth shattering difference, but you’ll be able to tell the difference when you’re quilting. The fabric being nicely ironed is a beautiful foundation for your quilting, so it’s worth it to set yourself up for success with all this thrilling ironing. Oh, and if you pin baste, please don’t iron after basting. For (hopefully) obvious reasons.

Set Up A Basting Supply Station

Getting a basting station set up sounds intuitive, but it didn’t occur to me until I had basted a few times, and nearly killed my back getting up and down from the ground to run and grab things, so learn from me and get yourself completely set up ahead of time!

Before I start basting, I always gather:

  • Old Sheet-To protect the floor from basting over spray.
  • Masking Tape–For taping down the sheet, and the quilt backing.
  • Fabric Scissors–For trimming the batting down to size, or cutting off extra fabric from the backing once basting is done.
  • Thread Scissors–Tiny scissors for trimming any errant threads that pop up during basting. I love my stork scissors which I’ve had for years.
  • Basting Spray–Good old 505 basting spray. I stalk Amazon regularly since it goes down in price every so often.
  • Lint Roller–To get random hair/fuzz/mystery items off the fabric at a moment’s notice.
  • Wet Rag–Some of us always manage to get basting spray on our hands, and it’s a good idea to get it off ASAP, since it’s super sticky.
  • Phone–Do you really want to get up to answer a text, turn on music, or take a 10th Instagram break? I didn’t think so.
  • Candy–For energy and moral support…but not chocolate (sorry). Don’t make a mess on your precious quilt!  
  • Oh, and you’re probably going to need a quilt and some batting. I use Warm and White batting–it’s a must for light colored fabric. 

I hope these tips help you feel a little more confident about basting. Everyone finds a method that works for them, so pick and choose from my tips to help create a perfect basting experience for yourself. And if you have any tips for me, I’d love to hear them! Share them here, or on Instagram.

This post may contain affiliate links. Please be aware that I may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post. 

Straight Line Quilting

When I first started making quilts a long (long) time ago, I never did the actual quilting–I always sent my quilts to someone with a long arm machine because quilting was a complete mystery to me, and way too intimidating. Last year all that changed when I forced myself to go outside of my comfort zone and quilt the mountain quilt I was making for my son. I was super pregnant when I quilted it, which made the process much more difficult. I spent the whole time wrestling the quilt through the tiny throat of my sewing machine, sweating like crazy (both due to being pregnant, and the impending deadline) and worrying that I was completely messing up an important quilt (spoiler alert: I wasn’t). In the end, quilting was not nearly as intimidating as I expected, and I was so glad I gave it a shot, because it gave me the confidence to keep doing it. Now I almost always quilt my own quilts, with one caveat: I’ve only ever done straight lines! Curves and zigzags and designs are a little out of reach for me right now, mostly thanks to my sewing machine, but I’m totally fine with that, because I love straight line quilting. It’s easy to do once you get the hang of it, and it always looks amazing. There’s a few crucial steps to ensuring beautiful straight lines, and I’ll discuss each one in-depth. But first, a list!

Straight Line Quilting Steps

  • Proper Basting
  • Marking the Lines
  • Go Slow
  • Crinkle That Quilt!

That’s it! See, I told you it was easy to do. As with most things in life, quality preparation will be the key to your success. This will be a wordier post than usual, but I hope you’ll find it worth it to read through. I’m writing this assuming you know the basics of piecing and quilting. If not, there is lots of great info out there. Check out quilters like Suzy Quilts or Modern Handcraft for quilty tutorial goodness.

Proper Basting

Let me start out by saying that basting is the worst. It’s my least favorite step in the entire quilting process, and the reason that I sometimes leave finished quilt tops languishing. It’s tedious, stressful (for me at least!), and painful–crawling around on the ground is not my idea of a good time. But it’s one of the most important building blocks to beautiful quilting, so it has to be done! I personally spray baste, and shared a few of my top basting tips in a recent post. There are tons of super thorough tutorials out there. One of my favorites is from Emily Dennis, a quilter I really admire. She also spray bastes and has a saved Instagram story series all about spray basting. Check it out if you’re new to the basting world! My biggest spray basting tip is to IRON the quilt after basting (do the back first). This helps you locate any puckers in the fabric and make sure that everything is laying nice and flat. Check out the backing is this picture–it’s half ironed, half not. You can see why I iron after basting! I do this immediately since the spray I use (the popular 505 spray) sticks extremely well and if you wait too long, you probably won’t be able to move the fabric if you find that you need to. Once your quilt is basted, you’re ready to start quilting!

Marking the Lines

A caveat before I share this one: I imagine a lot of quilters will disagree with me here, and that’s totally fine! There’s no one right way to do anything, especially quilting. This step can add a fair amount of time to the process, but I think it’s well worth it. I do not use a guide on my walking foot when I quilt, which means I mark each and every line I quilt. I prefer this for many reasons. It gives me an obvious path to follow when I quilt. It forces me to stop quilting and take a look at my progress. And most importantly, it means I’m not potentially following crooked lines due to an earlier error. I use a hera marker which is a very simple little tool–and a very handy one. There’s no ink involved, but when you run it across fabric, it leaves an indentation in the fabric, perfect for quilting! I use my ruler to ensure the lines are super straight, and enough pressure to leave a decent mark. It will come out when you wash the quilt, so don’t worry! Alternatively you can use a disappearing ink pen which also comes out when you wash the fabric–in theory. PLEASE be sure to confirm this before drawing all over your fabric! I’ve never had an issue with it not coming out, but you never know.

I typically mark about 8-10 lines at a time, measuring them based on whatever pattern I decided on ahead of time. I frequently quilt 1/2 inch apart because I love the look of closely spaced quilting, and the extra crinkle it gives quilts. After I mark the lines, I quilt right away since it can be hard to see them after a while. (As a note, I set my stitch length to 3.0 and use a walking foot to help feed the quilt through more smoothly.) Then I mark the next set and quilt, and repeat until the quilt is done. If I need to take a break, I just stop marking lines, and pick back up when it’s time to quilt again. This method is great because I can start quilting again after a gap of several hours (or days) and my lines are always straight.

Go Slow

Straight line quilting is so straightforward (ha) that it can be really tempting to zoom through your lines at lightning speed, but this almost always causes problems. You certainly don’t have to go super slow, but a steady speed will ensure nice stitches and straight lines. Often times you will need to adjust your quilt a bit as you push it through the throat of your machine, and if you rush, you risk pushing the quilt out of alignment and throwing off your lines. Similarly, if you don’t take the time to mark your lines carefully, you can start slowly throwing off the slant of your lines–and not realize it until you reach the end of the quilt and discover your last lines of quilting aren’t parallel with the edge of your quilt! This is why I never mark more than about 10 lines at a time. Having to stop and mark more lines gives me a chance to inspect the quilting I’ve already completed and make sure it’s not slowly becoming crooked. Most of my quilts have a seam that I use as my starting point, and I will refer back to that seam throughout quilting to ensure that my lines are nice and straight. This sounds a bit time consuming, and it is, but not forever. My first few quilts were a slooow process but the longer I do this, the faster I get (while still going slow, of course). I’ve become pretty adept at marking lines, quilting (without messing up the lines as the quilt moves through the machine), doing a quick straightness check, and marking the next set of lines. If you decide to do this method, you’ll be getting through your quilts in no time too!

Crinkle That Quilt!

This is the easiest and most fun part of quilting. While your quilt no doubt looks great after your quilting and binding, giving it a quick wash in the washing machine will allow the fabric and batting to pucker a bit between your (super straight) lines of quilting, giving it that “crinkle” that quilters love. I used to be anti-crinkle which is a bit silly, since quilts will eventually need washed, so you might as well crinkle it up front and relish that beautiful quilty texture. Another big plus of washing? The crinkle hides any small errors! You heard it here first–when you see a line that’s just not perfect, go ahead and leave it, and know that your quilt will look great once it is washed! 

Look at the difference in this quilt before and after washing! Both are lovely, but that washed version on the right is just so much more inviting and looks ready to snuggle!

I hope these tips were helpful for you. Remember, quilting is supposed to be fun, so don’t let yourself be paralyzed by fear…give quilting a shot and you’ll get better and better every time. Quilts are warm and snuggly even with lines that aren’t 100% straight. My mom always says that if a man on a galloping horse won’t see your “mistake”, then it doesn’t matter. I think that’s the best quilting advice of all!

This post may contain affiliate links. Please be aware that I may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post. 

Binding Details

Your quilt is quilted, the binding is made…now what?? If you read my earlier post, Musings on Bindings, you learned a few binding tips from me, but based on the response I got on Instagram, lots of you have more questions than just how I match my thread. In order to answer those questions, I promised to write a more thorough post the next time I bound a quilt. Luckily for the world, that glorious day is finally here! Before I share my process I want to once again direct you to what I consider the essential binding tutorial (not mine, duh). Red Pepper Quilts published her binding tutorial back in 2009 and it has served the quilting community well ever since. It’s how I learned my current method and I think she deserves all the credit! So please consider this post as a supplement to hers.

Since I seem to love bullet points so much, here’s what I’ll cover in this post:

  • Squaring up your quilt
  • Attaching the binding
  • Quality time with your iron
  • Topstitching 

Let’s take a journey through binding, shall we? Before we do though, please be warned that these pictures are nowhere close to professional! I was snapping them quickly as I finished the binding for my most recent quilt. Also, I’m probably going to add A LOT of pictures, but as a visual learner, this is kind of my default. Hopefully you find it helpful too!

Squaring Up Your Quilt

First I trimmed the top and bottom, and now will trim the sides

Before I say anything else on this topic, I’ll share a secret of mine: I’ve never made a perfectly square (or rectangular) quilt. Almost all quilts are a tiny bit wonky, but trust me when I say no one will notice but you (promise). Therefore, don’t stress out about this step too much. I’d say my most important tip here is that I don’t trim my quilt top until I’m done quilting. That means once I’m done piecing, I don’t mess with it no matter how tempted I might be! I baste and quilt and THEN trim. You never know how things might shift during quilting, and the section that used to seem too long is suddenly just right (and would have been too short had you trimmed it off before quilting). Depending on your quilt, you can use either your piecing or quilting as a guide for trimming. Since I often quilt straight lines, I use those lines as my guide when I trim. After all, you don’t want that bottom quilting looking crooked compared to your binding! When you begin trimming, I recommend doing the top/bottom or sides first, then switching. I usually do the top and bottom first, measuring if needed, and then trim the sides based on the newly cut top and bottom edges. This ensures a (mostly) even quilt! 

 Attaching the Binding

Once the quilt is trimmed, you’re ready to attach the binding. I break out my handy clover clips and clip the binding onto the quilt, with the raw edges of the quilt and binding together. I fold the corners and make sure to do the entire quilt so I can check and see if there are any seams in corners, and adjust as needed. Corners can be pretty bulky, and having a binding seam there would make your life way more stressful than it needs to be, so readjust the binding if that happens. This is always easier to do before you sew it on to the quilt! Once everything looks good, you can start sewing. I have a 1/4 inch foot that I use on for this purpose, to ensure I’m attaching the binding evenly. As directed in the tutorial, I leave a large gap between where I start stitching and where I end. I’ve found this makes it much easier to deal with joining the binding at the end. Once your binding ends are joined, and the whole binding is sewn to the quilt top, it’s time to fire up the iron.

Binding clipped on, ready for sewing
Corners prepped!
Sewing the binding onto the quilt

Quality Time With Your Iron

First step–ironing binding towards edge

This seems to be my big secret, and I guess I never realized it was a secret, because I thought all quilters were already doing it! But apparently not, so I’m happy to let you in on it. Once the binding is attached to the front, I drag the whole quilt over to my ironing board and press the binding towards the edge of the quilt, covering the stitches. I do this around the entire perimeter of the quilt. Then I turn the quilt over and iron the binding over the back of the quilt, making everything nice and crisp. I pay special attention to the corners, using my fingers or a point turner to make sure each corner lays flat. Hopefully my pictures will make this a little more clear! Then I use my clover clips again to clip the binding down. Once you get used to this process, it really doesn’t take too long, but makes a world of difference! I highly recommend doing this each time you bind, because it has always been how I get my binding so even, and my corners so crisp.

Then fold over the binding, iron again at the fold, and clip!
When you come to a corner, first press the corner in one direction
Then iron the other side down
Add a clip to make sure it stays in place
The top view of the quilt once it is ironed and ready for topstitching

Topstitching

The last step is topstitching. Or is it stitching in the ditch? I’m not sure what this qualifies as, but this is how you secure the binding to the back of the quilt. The only catch is that you’re stitching on the front of the quilt. This means you get to see where your stitches go, so they are effectively hiding in the ditch of the binding and don’t detract from your gorgeous quilting. Keep in mind it might not always look 100% perfect on the back (or the front!) and that’s totally fine. A few visible stitches on the front or crooked stitches on the back of the binding are no big deal, trust me. I increase my stitch length to 3.0, and as I said in my previous binding post, I will backstitch in the corners for added strength. I typically just keep going the entire way around without lifting my needle (unless I’m changing thread colors or made a mistake–which happens often). This is why my corners look how they do. Rather than sewing one corner to another corner, and then snipping the threads and starting on the next side, I just backstitch in the corner and pivot the quilt with the needle still down. Of course this is just personal preference but I enjoy doing that when possible.

Here the foot is up and I’ve turned the quilt with the needle down, to start the next side

After you’ve stitched on all sides of you’re quilt, the binding is done and you can sit back and admire your handiwork! I hope these binding details were helpful and I’d love to hear what tips you have!

Time to admire your hard work!
The crisp corners are worth all the ironing!

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Musings on Binding

There’s really no need for me to write anything remotely resembling a binding tutorial, because the world already has the one it needs–this absolute gem from Red Pepper Quilts. It’s the holy grail of binding and I highly recommend her method. I follow her steps almost to the letter and honestly can’t remember how I used to do binding, since this way feels like second nature now. The only step I skip is doing the zig zag stitch on the edge of the binding, and instead of pins, I use these handy clips. They’re super sturdy and hold your binding on nicely. I exclusively machine bind simply because I don’t have the time for hand binding, but if you have the time, I say go for it!

The only points I’d like to elaborate on are things that I’ve received questions about, and they’re minor indeed:

  • Matching Thread
  • Corners

Yep, just two! I wasn’t sure that these tips even merited their own post, but I get these questions a lot, so hopefully you find this info helpful.

Matching Thread

In the tutorial, quilters are told to pick a top thread that matches their quilt top, and a bobbin thread that matches the binding. This is exactly what I do, but when I make a quilt that features a fabric in a drastically different color than the rest of the quilt, I will swap out the top thread to match the different fabric. When I make the Stack Quilt, the bottom fabric color runs the entire length of the quilt, and is usually much darker than the rest of the quilt, so using a thread that matches it is worth the little bit of extra work. When I begin stitching the binding, I start right at the beginning of the fabric which will be getting the different thread, quilt the length of that particular fabric (back-stitching at the start and end), and switch to my main thread color for the remainder of the quilt (back-stitching at the start and end as well). And don’t worry, this won’t show through onto the back! If you pick a bobbin color that matches the binding, switching the top thread is barely noticeable.

Most quilts have multiple different colors abutting the binding, and it’s really not worth the time and effort to change your thread color numerous times. Normally I pick a color that matches the quilt as a whole (frequently an off-white shade like my go-to Aurifil Oyster), and don’t give it a second thought. But in cases like the mountain quilt I made for my son, which had large sections of white and blue fabrics, it is a nice touch to change thread colors. It’s essential to remember to back-stitch when swapping colors–just a few stitches will do!

Corners

One concern I’ve heard voiced about machine binding is the corners. Quilters always worry about these corners being nice and secure, and for good reason! You certainly don’t want them coming apart as time goes by. However, I’m here to attest that machine binding is just as sturdy as hand binding, and shouldn’t be avoided for fear of your corners coming apart. I always back-stitch in each corner for added strength, and that’s it. I don’t do any other stitching and have had zero issues with the corners coming apart. The mountain quilt I made for my son has been washed multiple times and used frequently over the past year, and the corners haven’t budged.

If you’re new to machine binding, or have never sewn it on the front before, I highly recommend giving this method a try. The end result is a professional looking finish, since the stitches are almost completely hidden.

This post may contain affiliate links. Please be aware that I may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post.